Either that or alternatively the JCL Seat, it's a bit sturdier and around the same price as the 4 Play Racing seat unless you buy and machine the material yourself.īut I just don't see the purpose of the other two in your post, they are not any sturdier than the first one, only puts you higher up which again, is not good. The "Low and Light" one I agree with, looks practically identical to the 4 Play Racing seat on Ebay and is just about the best cheap configuration 80/20 rig you could go with if you get the material and make it yourself. Anyone out there know what the European (German?) equivalent of McMaster-Carr is?Īll three are virtually the same rig, just the last one uses twice as much material as the first one and you sit a few inches higher, which, for race car purposes is totally irrelevant (bad actually, you want to sit low to the ground) In fact, it's going to be quite nonadjustable once built up (mostly using standard anti-turn connectors to put it together) I'm sure there will be some other small bits I'll want before it's done though. The 40x40 extrusions about arm rest height also needs to be rethought a bit. Motedis has the parts available to make this easy enough (just need to hunt down shaft collars). I'm heavily leaning towards framing in my own 16mm shafts for the pedals to pivot on though. The plan is to build it up roughly as shown & then play around with pedal mounting positions before deciding on the final arrangement. I still need to model up the stock D-Pads & I'm debating making a set of small extensions (to make the pedal length longer) for them so that I can set the pedal pivot in the same spot as it is on the real car as well. The front of this thing isn't that well thought out at the moment & definitely not finished. In the end, the supports for the pedals will also attach to the more forward 80x40 upright, so I guess no harm in overdoing it. I had thought about going with a single 80x40 upright for the wheel base, but I want to have a small table sort of area around the base, so that was the thinking there (Motedis 6mm Al plate cut to size). I had this as an afterthought and have buy new parts and extra shipping again.Īh, that's good to know. If you do want to make it F1 compatible as well, consider the poles for the pedals to be larger as well, this way you can just up them to chest height and add a board on the top bars - F1 done. It's what i'm sorta in the process of.Īs for your rig, are you planning those 2 double slots? I have my big mige, which is pretty much the heaviest wheelbase around, on 1x45mm double slot and it's rock solid and since you add a top bar, there's zero chance it will flip or anything like that. It is very helpful if the rig should function for openwheeler too as the steering wheel is usually straight up vertical. Whether it's needed or not, is of course preference as well. But angle adjustment is considered in OP's plans and my comment is just an alternative, as you wouldn't need several cuts if the shop is charging extra and no brackets. I'm sure it depends a lot on how you prefer things to be setup
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